Cartier adapts to young people buying high jewellery ‘just to enjoy it’, Lifestyle News


High jewellery is the most rarefied realm of the luxurious planet.

Though haute couture – the development of 1-of-a-variety garments made to purchase in Paris by homes such as Chanel and Dior – gets most of the notice for its tremendous price tags and remarkable craftsmanship, substantial jewellery is even far more exclusive.

We’re chatting about one particular-of-a-form pieces created with the rarest stones in hundreds of years-previous workshops in Paris.

Pierre Rainero, graphic, design and style and heritage director at Cartier, has been at the storied property for practically four many years and has an encyclopedic information of the maison and its superior jewelry division.

We caught up with him at the launch of Cartier’s latest high jewellery assortment, Beautés du Monde (Beauties of the Environment), held in June in Madrid, Spain, and attended by stars these types of as Jisoo from K-pop girl team Blackpink and actress Yara Shahidi.

The principal concept of the collection is the beauty of character. How do you make a subject matter like character fun and related?

“At Cartier, we have two fields of expression: The summary a person and the figurative 1, which have coexisted eternally. In the latest several years, we have explored even much more this partnership between abstract and figurative. You can see the allusion to a snake in a necklace, for occasion, but it doesn’t matter it’s more about styles. You may possibly not see it as a snake and, at the time you know, you see it.

“The to start with allusion to [Cartier’s icon] the panther, for occasion, was abstract – the dots but not the complete animal – and then it became figurative and achieved quantity. When we operate with shapes, we play with ambiguity and thriller.”

How do you make high jewellery interesting to more youthful clientele?

“Globally, the purchasers are getting youthful underneath the force of Asia for the reason that specifically their people have accessibility to wealth at a younger age, so we encounter youthful and young purchasers for important parts, which was not the case in the previous.


“Also, social media plays a purpose and is a good aid to converse about the brand name on social networks, there is so a great deal details about Cartier. This new technology has a ton of access to knowledge, much more than any other. Prior to, as a model, you experienced to count on publications, exhibitions and outlets.

“I also assume the way of daily life of younger persons is not the exact same as their mother and father, which also has an effect on the way they live with their jewelry. What we see when we are face to experience with shoppers is that they want to take pleasure in it and dress in it as substantially as possible, probably simply because they feel lifetime is as well shorter so they just want to get pleasure from it.”

Have tastes in superior jewellery adjusted simply because of Covid-19?

“We’re continue to going via Covid-19 and we have political instability, and inflation, and the war in Ukraine and various good reasons to fear in a lot of components of the planet. The distinct consequence is the concept to concentrate on beacons, what appeals to you eternally, legendary styles that are long term, something that will have worth for many years to appear. Jewelry in basic is portion of that.

“But that doesn’t mean you need to have to be conservative in your models. It is a paradox: You go to Cartier because of its permanence, but creativity and innovation are also element of that.”

What about logistical worries?

“This assortment was produced in 2020 and there were being no jewellery fairs. The Hong Kong good, for example, is ordinarily, in our system, the ultimate quit, so if we can’t obtain much more stones there we generally perform with what we have. You have to see the stones when you invest in them, so we had the stones appear to us, and we managed, but it was a difficult context.”

What do you make of lab-developed diamonds?

“Culture can evolve. You may perhaps consider that what is pure is a wonder and a diamond is a wonder, and you’re attracted to that, but believe about pearls. People today did stop up getting cultured pearls, so why not have the two choices? Let’s not underestimate the possible evolution of lifestyle.

“There are also a lot of research getting done and some say that the natural way developed diamonds use far more energy. You have to get it slowly but surely and see.”

Do you glimpse at what other players in the marketplace are accomplishing?

“It’s fascinating to see what is happening in jewellery, mainly because we’re a quite vital actor in the evolution [of the industry].


“We see what a person else is executing, and it is typically anything we just really don’t do since it is just not us, so we’re not jealous. In our area, there is place for lots of directions and we look at it with curiosity.

“It’s fascinating – and it would be a disaster if there was no creativeness, the more we have the much better since it produces extra fascination in jewellery.”

What is your very first jewellery-connected memory?

“A sautoir [long necklace] that my grandmother was wearing when I was two in Algeria, the place I was born. It was extensive in black jet, regular mourning jewellery generally worn by widows, and it was in various designs like spheres and ovals, and I would play with it and feel the designs and texture. I bear in mind the distinctive volumes of them.”

What is your favorite stone?

“It’s a shock to numerous since it’s not a cherished stone but semi-cherished. It’s the peridot. When you like one thing you just cannot clarify it, you just like it. But I do like green in typical and I like the nuances of the peridot mainly because it has a heat color, with some yellow in it, far more yellowish than emerald.”

ALSO Study: 16 legendary Cartier patterns you can purchase beneath $10k

This posting was to start with printed in South China Morning Publish.


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